Citation

Mei CC, Angelides D. Coast. Eng. (Amsterdam) 1977; 1: 31-42.

Copyright

(Copyright © 1977, Elsevier Publishing)

DOI

10.1016/0378-3839(77)90005-9

PMID

unavailable

Abstract

This paper is concerned with the averaged circulation caused by waves breaking along the beach of a constant slope around a circular island in a sea of constant depth. It is reasoned that the refraction pattern determines the extent of longshore circulation. In particular, for an island so large that there is a lee shore which is not affected by the refracting waves, two current cells are found on two sides of the island with respect to the wave direction, without significant penetration in the lee shore region. This enhances the creation of two sand spits which may grow to form a looped bar, or two tombolos to connect with the neighboring mainland. For an island so small that the extent of the lee shore vanishes, the two current cells collide at the center of the island lee and form a single rip current. This is used to explain the presence of a single tombolo.

Keywords: Drowning; Drowning Prevention; Water Safety