Citation

Deigaard R, Drønen N, Fredsøe J, Jensen JH, Jørgensen MP. Coast. Eng. (Amsterdam) 1999; 36(3): 171-195.

Copyright

(Copyright © 1999, Elsevier Publishing)

DOI

10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00005-8

PMID

unavailable

Abstract

A morphological stability analysis is carried out for a long straight coast with a longshore bar. The situation with oblique wave incidence and a wave-driven longshore current is considered. The flow and sediment transport are described by a numerical modelling system. The models comprise: (i) a wave model with depth refraction, shoaling and wave breaking, (ii) a depth integrated model for wave driven currents and (iii) a sediment transport model for the bed load transport and the suspended load transport in combined waves and current. The direction of the sediment transport is taken to be parallel to the depth integrated mean current velocity, neglecting the effects of a bed slope and secondary currents. An instability is found to develop around the bar crest. The instability is periodic in the alongshore direction, and tends to form rip channels and to steepen the offshore face of the bar between the rip channels. The alongshore wave length of the most unstable perturbation is determined for different combinations of the wave conditions and the geometry of the profile.

Keywords

Stability analysis;
Coastal morphology;
Barred coasts;
Rip currents;
Rip channels;
Longshore current;
Longshore sediment transport;
Littoral drift