TY - JOUR PY - 1993// TI - A note on the three-dimensional shear stress distribution in a surf zone JO - Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) A1 - Deigaard, Rolf SP - 157 EP - 171 VL - 20 IS - 1-2 N2 - The three-dimensional time-mean shear stress distribution in a surf zone is analyzed, thereby determining the vertical distribution of the driving forces due to wave-breaking. It is found that on a uniform coast the longshore current can be described as driven by a surface shear stress equal to the cross-shore gradient in the shear component of the radiation stress. The near surface shear stress is found to be in the direction of wave propagation, having a magnitude determined by the dissipation of wave energy. It can be determined as the shear force acting on the waves from the surface rollers of spilling breakers or broken waves.
LA - SN - 0378-3839 UR - http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(93)90059-H ID - ref1 ER -