@article{ref1,
title="A note on the three-dimensional shear stress distribution in a surf zone",
journal="Coastal engineering (Amsterdam)",
year="1993",
author="Deigaard, Rolf",
volume="20",
number="1-2",
pages="157-171",
abstract="The three-dimensional time-mean shear stress distribution in a surf zone is analyzed, thereby determining the vertical distribution of the driving forces due to wave-breaking. It is found that on a uniform coast the longshore current can be described as driven by a surface shear stress equal to the cross-shore gradient in the shear component of the radiation stress. The near surface shear stress is found to be in the direction of wave propagation, having a magnitude determined by the dissipation of wave energy. It can be determined as the shear force acting on the waves from the surface rollers of spilling breakers or broken waves.<p />",
language="",
issn="0378-3839",
doi="10.1016/0378-3839(93)90059-H",
url="http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(93)90059-H"
}